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    University instructor. Freelance writer. Travel blogger. Beach junkie. Whale shark conservation advocate. Lover. Yes, Juanderkid! :)

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Archive For March, 2012

donsol header

Weekend Juander: Mayon-Butanding Connection

03/29/2012 · juanderkid

Here’s a possible itinerary if you’re short on time and you want to explore Bicol on a weekend. An overnight stay is actually enough to swim with the whale sharks, watch fireflies, conquer Mayon Volcano, and feast on Bicolano dishes. We shall refer to this part of your Bicol adventure as the Mayon-Butanding Connection.

This itinerary is designed for those who are taking the bus from Manila on a Friday night and leaving Bicol, again by bus, on Sunday night. Likewise, this is also intended for those flying to Legazpi on an early Saturday morning and flying back to Manila on Monday morning. You can use the same itinerary as long as you have an overnight to spare in Bicol (make that two nights if you’re traveling by plane).

DAY 1.

If you take the 7pm bus trips from Manila, expect to be in Legazpi by 6am the next day. Cebu Pacific has the earliest flight to Legazpi, you’ll be in the city by 7am if the flight is not delayed.

Breakfast. If you’re hungry, you can have breakfast at Bigg’s Diner, a popular local food chain. They have branches in Daraga, Old Albay, LCC and Gaisano Malls. Head to their Old Albay branch. From the Legazpi Terminal, your last bus stop, hop on a jeep that bears a Daraga sign and asked to be dropped off at the Capitol. Fare is PhP8. From there, it is a short walk to the diner.

Your other option is to take a tricycle, in which case you will need to shell out PhP40-50 for the ride. From the airport, ride one of the tricycles that are parked outside and tell the driver to take you to Bigg’s Diner. Fare should not be more than PhP40. Slowly acquaint your tastebud with Bicol cuisine by ordering their pork chop and laing combo meal.

If it’s hole-in-the-wall dining experience that you fancy, eat at Kaunan ni Jun. Follow the same direction from the bus terminal and airport and ask the driver to drop you off in front of the Albay Astrodome. The eatery is not hard to find from here.

Romancing Mayon. After your quick breakfast, it is time to see Mayon. Since commuting will take a lot of your time, I suggest you hire a tricycle to take you to three viewing spots – Daraga Church, Cagsawa Ruins, and Lingnon Hill – and back to the city. The price can go from PhP200 to PhP300 depending on how good you are in haggling. Do not agree if the driver commands a higher price. If you’re traveling as a big group, I suggest you avail the city tour package offered by your hotel.

Your first stop in conquering Mayon is Daraga Church where you get a view of Mayon from a hill. Added bonus here is the Church of Our Lady of the Gate, which facade was built using volcanic rocks from Mayon.

After which, proceed to Cagsawa Ruins which is famous for its bell tower, the only remnant of the Cagsawa Church when Mayon erupted in the 18th century. Have some trick and jump shots taken with Mayon as your backdrop. Entrance fee is PhP20.

Your next stop is Lingnon Hill, a really interesting spot to view Mayon. Environmental fee, which also serves as your entrance fee, is PhP20. I am not sure if the tricycle can get to the top of the hill. If not, you are in for some “smooth” climbing. Try the zipline ride (PhP250) for a unique Mayon-watching experience.

Ask the driver to drop you off at the Gaisano Mall for lunch. You can eat at 1st Colonial Grill and try their chili ice cream.

Going to Donsol. After lunch, head back to the Legazpi Terminal (jeepney fare is PhP8, tricycle ride costs PhP30) and ride the shuttle vans to Donsol. Fare is PhP75. Travel time is an hour and a half, at most.

Once in Donsol and you’ve settled your stuff at your resort, proceed to the Tourism Office to register, avail of slots for next day’s tours and attend the briefing. You will pay PhP100 as your registration fee while the tour costs PhP3,500 and can be shared among six people. The Tourism Office is open until 5:00pm. Read everyhing there is to know about the whale shark tour here.

After the briefing, you can go back to your resort and take some rest while you wait for the sunset. You should not miss Donsol’s sunset.

If you want, go on a firefly tour by 6:00pm. You can take the tour from Amor Farm Beach Resort or from the jump-off point near Donsol’s only prominent bridge.

After the tour (which can run for two hours at most), have dinner at Kawnkita Restaurant where their house specialty is Bicol cuisine such as adobadong manok, bicol express, and kinunot (fish meat, malunggay leaves, chili, coconut milk).

Day 2.

Date with the butandings. Get up early for the whale shark tour if you’re able to book the 7:00am schedule. If you weren’t lucky to reserve and would be needing luck to get on the first batch of the tours, you need to be at the Tourism Center before 7:00am. The tour runs for three hours so you will be back at your resort by lunchtime.

After lunch, proceed to Donsol’s Terminal and ride the vans to go back to Legazpi. There are usualy vans until 2:00pm, after which only jeepneys travel to Daraga, some 30 minutes ride to Legazpi. Jeepney fare is PhP60, travel time is almost two hours.

Once back in Legazpi, you can buy pasalubongs at the terminal. The items are a lot cheaper here compared to tourist spots like the Cagsawa Ruins.

If you still have time, have meryenda at Small Talk. It is a famous local restaurant revered for its fusion Bicolano dishes. Try the Bicol Express Pasta or Mayon Pizza. Follow the same direction when going to Bigg’s Diner. Small Talk is some few meters away from the diner.

Goodbye Bicolandia. After which you ride the bus back to Manila. Make sure you take one of the window seats on the right side you can bid goodbye to Mayon while she melts into darkness.

For those spending the night in Legazpi for their early morning flight to Manila, you can hang out at Embarcadero de Legazpi where you get a seafront view of Mayon. Remember Baywalk of yesteryears? Embarcadero transforms into that after dusk so you can probably have dinner here.

If you still have the energy and wanting a good massage to end your weekend escape, there’s a good massage place on the third floor of Gaisano Mall (which name escapes me at the moment and that should tell you to come back to this posy for an update). The massage costs PhP300.

Alternative itinerary. Head straight to Donsol after arriving in Legazpi and then take the 10:00am or 2:00pm whale shark tours and end your day with the firefly tour. Wake up early the next day and head back to Legazpi where you conquer Mayon and feast some more on Bicolano dishes.

See? A weekend in Bicol is not really complicated. You get to glide along the world’s largest fish and enjoy the sight of the world’s near-perfect cone in just two days. Enjoy your Mayon-Butanding Connection!

Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

Posted via WordPress for Android while enjoying middle of the road music, on my way home to Donsol.

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Donsol Sunset and Firefly Tour

03/29/2012 · juanderkid

There is a better way to end your adventure with the whale sharks in Donsol. Keeping up with the butandings can be tiring especially when you have to contend with other people just to swim with it. If you’re looking for an activity to contrast the action-packed adventure you had early in the morning, try Donsol’s sunset and firefly tour.

Actually, the tour is just simply referred to in Donsol as the firefly tour but if you read further, you will understand why in my book, it’s known as the sunset and firefly tour. If you haven’t seen fireflies, like hundreds of them, swarming and dancing around a narra tree, by all means go on the firefly tour. And if you can’t resist a really good sunset and the idea of enjoying maybe a bottle of beer while you go on a sunset cruise that transforms into a river cruise as you make your way to where the fireflies are, do not leave Donsol without enjoying the sunset and firefly tour.

It is a sweet retreat that brings out the romantics in you. If you’re a sucker for sunsets and stars and glittering Hollywood romance movies, this could be the perfect setting for your own love story. I for once couldn’t help but think of maybe proposing to someone in the middle of the firefly tour when I went to see the fireflies last year. Because really, when you look at the tree from afar with hundreds of fireflies rhythmically moving around it and with the sky also bedecked with stars in the background, you can get really creative and amorous. I thought of maybe putting the ring in one of the branches early in the day and reaching out for it in the middle of our firefly and stargazing moment like I was reaching for the stars and that’s when am gonna pop the question “Will you marry me?” (Please don’t mind this part, this is just my biological clock pressuring me again!) :D

But really, the experience is truly a romantic one and believe it or not, just this February, a little over Valentine’s Day, a woman (yes, a woman!) proposed to her man while they were in the middle of firefly watching. Her boyfriend didn’t have the slightest idea as he was blindfolded as they make the river cruise and when it was time for the moment, the woman took his blindfold off and proposed with the fireflies in the background. Sweet! :)

Anyway, fireflies or lightning bugs are not your ordinary insects. Known to produce “cold light” which they use to attract their partners, fireflies are mostly found in tropical countries. I learned that there are also fireflies in some European countries although the ones that are found there are as big as cockroaches. Fireflies are found in big numbers in Donsol, gathering around the narra and talisay trees along the riverbanks of the town’s two rivers: Donsol and Ogod.

Their presence in one area indicates very good air quality so you can tell that Donsol has one of the country’s healthiest environments. Having the world’s largest fish and some of it’s smallest creatures in one place surely speaks volume of the natural resources that abound in Donsol.

Locally, older generations believe that a tree is actually enchanted when it is lit by fireflies. Most people refer to the presence of tikbalang (Philippine folklore creature that resembles a ginormous horse) in these trees. You are not going to find a picture of fireflies decorating a tree here as it is very impossible to capture them on camera. There is a story that goes around Donsol about a foreign tourist who took a photo of the tree swarmed by fireflies with the help of his point and shoot camera. When he had his films developed, the photo showed a tree bursting with flowers of different kinds and colors.

The tours costs PhP1,250 and is good for five people and takes at least an hour and a half to be completed. Which means if you’re a group of three persons, you can actually split the amount with two other guests who might want to go with you on the tour. The fee covers boat rental and the services of a tour guide.

There are three jump-off points for the firefly tour. The first one is near the only prominent bridge in Donsol and you will find a signage that speaks of the activity. The tour that starts here goes to the Donsol River. If you’re staying in one of the lodging house in town, you can walk to the bridge if you like. A tricycle ride costs PhP10 per person. The same can be said for those coming from the resorts in Dancalan.

The other jump-off point is in Ogod, near what is referred to as dawitan (mini-port) in Sapa, another village in Donsol. It’s a little bit far from town, probably around 15-20 minutes by tricyle and fare is PhP20-30 per person. This can cost more as you have to make arrangements with the tricycle driver to wait for you to come back from the tour as no tricycles are regularly found here. Some say that there are more fireflies that converge here but I’ve been to both tours and the only difference that I observed was that Ogod River is narrower than Donsol River so you appear closer to the trees and the fireflies.

The third jump-off point I will reveal later on this post. :D

The tour from the bridge starts at 6:00 pm and this is the river where you cruise until you get to where the fireflies are. Now, do not go on the firefly tour when it is full moon for simple logic that the moon’s light can overwhelm the fireflies and that does not translate to a very exciting tour.

Also, be mindful of the weather. If it’s been raining, there is a big chance that fireflies won’t be out for the night. The tour operators are also concerned with your safety and enjoyment, so even when you insist that you want to take the tour, there’s a chance that your request will be turned down if the weather is not very cooperative. From this point, it will take some twenty minutes of slow boat ride before you first spot a tree with fireflies. But remember, fireflies go out in the dark, so most of these fireflies you will see on your way back to the jump-off point.

You cannot see this at night, but this is the quality of Donsol’s river. If you’ve been to Bohol, this will remind you of their rivers.

Now, this is the secret that you should know. Amor Farm Beach Resort is the third and the best jump-off point (and this I say with conviction) for the firefly tour.  Disclosure: If this is your first time to visit my blog, my family owns the resort, so use your best judgment. :)  Aside from our resort and Dancalan Beach Resort (which is, by the way, owned by my brother) near the Tourism Center, I am not sure if other resorts host this tour. Amor is the pioneer of this kind of tour among resort operators so you can trust my word on this one.

The tour costs the same and also starts at 6:00pm. It is best for those who are staying at the resort as the tour starts and ends at the beachfront. Do keep in mind, though, that the sunset and firefly tour from the resort is only possible when it is high-tide. Otherwise, you will skip the sunset cruise part and proceed to the bridge where your tour will take off.

Donsol has amazing sunsets so make sure to be at the beach as early as 5:00pm.

You can laze around, and maybe have a beer, or a very interesting conversation with your friends or partner while you wait for the sunset. Or you can spend the time taking photographs of it. I tell you, the sunsets in Donsol are one of the best sunsets I’ve seen around the Philippines. I am not kidding you.

So, indulge as you enjoy your view. All the photos here are taken on February this year so you can tell the quality of sunset in Donsol in the middle of the summer season (I really hope it stops raining soon!). You can choose among the spectacle in front of you. Blushing is certainly more fun in the Philippines.

Maybe a spunky sunset does not hurt as well.

A very relaxing play of colors is set to provide tranquility at the end of the day.

While a burst of merry colors and textures should jolt you out of your solitude.

This shall put you in a very zen state of mind as you begin your firefly tour.

While the sky is bursting with different colors, you start your sunset cruise. You can bring a bottle of beer or wine to complete your “cruise.” Your aim is to relax.

And it is perfectly understandable if you start to look bewildered and overjoyed as you go on the tour. The wealth of beauty around you cannot be simply ignored.

On your right, you get a view of local life set against a gorgeous sky.

While you can enjoy little majestic Mayon on your left. These are the views that you’re not gonna get when you take the tour from the other jump-off points. Remember, you are enjoying these views while the wind touches your skin and the breeze a little colder at this time of the day.

The boat ride from the resort to the mouth of the river usually takes around 20 to 30 minutes, so by the time you start your river cruise, the sky is dark already and the fireflies are starting to adorn the trees. The ride from the resort is breathtaking and it sure does prepare you for the kind of enchantment that waits for you in Donsol River.

The sunset and firefly tour is a deadly combination for hopeless romantics. For those who aren’t as crazy in love as these people, well, PhP250 does not give you this kind of view in the city, right? And it’s high time you get acquainted with that famous character you just met in your History class.

The next time you find yourself in Donsol, do not let this magical moment pass you by. Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

  • All photographs taken in February 2012 with a Canon 550d.
  • For inquiries, you can contact Amor Farm Beach Resort at +639095181150.
Related articles
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How To Conquer Mayon Volcano

03/28/2012 · juanderkid

You know it is never enough to just admire Mayon Volcano from afar. With a beauty like that, you understand there is some way of “conquering” her. If you cannot set foot on top of Mayon, then surely, you should find a way to at least enjoy a piece of it in a manner that is not easily forgettable. But if your energy tells you you are ready to get to Mayon’s crater, by all means, go. Mayon Volcano asks you to stop staring at her and get out of your usual viewing spot.

When it is your first time to conquer Mayon, it is important that you embark on a good start. Plan your trip accordingly so that you get a really magnificent view of Mayon while you are still up in the air or while your seatmate on the bus is still dozing it of in dreamland. This way, you wouldn’t have to spend your little time looking for that one spot where you can have a good vista of Mayon. That time should be spent wisely on conquering her.

When flying to Legazpi City, ask for a window seat. I cannot exactly tell you to take the left or right side of these window seats as the pilot can navigate the plane differently from time to time, but it is always best to take a window seat. Nothing is really amazing about Legazpi’s airport but having Mayon Volcano as your backdrop as you emerge out of your airplane is indeed a unique traveling experience. Take the earliest flight from Manila (that would have to be Cebu Pacific which leaves Manila at 6:05am when they are on time) as Mayon is highly visible early in the morning.

When you are really lucky, you get to ogle at this view even before you set foot in Bicolandia.

When taking the air-conditioned buses from Manila, avoid the early trips that leave at 4pm or 5pm. Traveling at this time will get you in Legazpi City very early, (usually around 4:00am or 5:00am) and Mayon will not yet be ready for her closeup then. It is better to take the later trips (preferably the one at 7:00pm) as it will allow you a really good view of Mayon before 6:00am the next day. I have a particular bias for Cagsawa buses because I can vouch for their good service, so I recommend you take their trips. They have booking offices in Ermita and Cubao (02-9131514). Fare ranges from PhP750 to PhP950.

Make sure you take the window seat on the driver’s side and get your sense working (especially your sense of sight) at 5:30am the next day. You are sure to enjoy a really good view of Mayon Volcano with rice fields on the foreground.

Now, for your “cute conquers” of Mayon, you can head to Cagsawa Ruins and have your jump shot taken such as the one I have here. They make for very good conversation pieces and while a lot of people are into this already, it is how you innovate your jump that makes your shot with Mayon as your backdrop an out-of-the-ordinary take on admiring the volcano.

Trust the locals who offer to take your pictures. They will approach you and can get really persistent at times but they know how to do the trick and have probably memorized the best angle to capture Mayon’s full glory. So after some time working on your camera and trying those tricks and not really getting the results that you want, you will relent anyway. Make sure to give them an “appreciation fee” that you feel does not disadvantage them or you. Make this a barkada or a family endeavor.

When you want a different adrenaline rush as you conquer Mayon, head to Lingnon Hill and get on their zipline ride. This surely elevates your game. Marvel at Mayon’s beauty as you scream at the top of your lungs. Remember, everybody can have a picture of Mayon Volcano to show to their friends when they’re back in the city, but not everyone can have this picture with them. The experience, however, requires you to shell out PhP250 for the two-way zipline ride but it is worth it. Look for Alvin Luminario of Linghon Hill Zipline.

Now, for that one hardcore conquer that is like no other, climb Mayon Volcano. The climb will take you up to the crater, this is indeed one helluva conquer. There is a common misconception that Mayon Volcano is unconquerable and dangerous (it is an active volcano, after all), but now there is a way to get to its crater without putting your life in danger. The Mayon Outdoor Guide Association or MOGA is the only organization accredited by the Department of Tourism – Bicol to take tourists to the crater so make sure that you avail of the services of a guide who is a member of the association.

One person that I totally trust to deliver a superb work on this one is Bayron Cepria.  I haven’t personally taken the tour but I have talked with a lot of tourists in our resort who have been to the crater and who strongly recommend Bayron for being a good guide. The guests I have talked with swears the climb to Mayon can get hard at times but it’s nothing once you get to the top. Expect to feel a different sense of accomplishment as not a lot of people can really say they have literally conquered the world’s near-perfect cone.

Mayon Volcano towers at 2,426 meters above sea level, and the association uses a newly discovered trail that takes off from San Roque in the town of Malilipot in Albay. The previous trail had its base in Santo Domingo, Albay.

According to Bayron, the tour usually takes two days if it involves seasoned mountaineers and trekkers but extends to three days when “ordinary tourists (that is, those with little experience on trekking)” are part of the tour. The challenge should not intimidate non-seasoned mountaineers as the guides are around to help them with the climb. The association offers a climb package that includes everything from food for the 2-3 day climb, ropes, tents, sleeping mattresses, and other camping paraphernalia. One tourist guide is assigned per one person plus two more persons who act as porters and secondary guides.

The climb usually starts at 5am or 6am of Day 1 that sees the climbers moving towards Camp 2 where they are going to spend the night. The forest trekking runs from five to six hours (and more depending on the pace of the guests). The trek takes you to some 1,200 meters.

Day 2 of the climb starts really early, usually at 4am. You get to see the sunrise at an elevated area, with the different islands surrounding Albay in sight.

From Camp 2 up until the 2,000 meters mark, there’s very little vegetation in the area and one has to climb wide lava. These are really smooth lava formations that have become solid through time and can get slippery when it’s rainy.

 The hardest part of the climb starts from the 2,000 meters mark up until the crater as you climb on eroded rocks.

But the view at this point certainly gets better.

And the climb, harder. Remember that at this point, you are conquering the part of Mayon that is made of hard volcanic rocks and sand, the climb can get really tricky. This is the part, says Bayron, that is considered a technical area where guests might see the need to use ropes as they continue with the trek.

But the punishing climb is worth it, since you do not just ascent up until the collapsed crater, you really make it to the top! And with the mouth of the volcano fuming smokes on the side, this is romancing the beautiful Mayon on a different, enviable level! For inquires regarding the climb to Mayon, contact Bayron Cepria (+639294657529 / +639179994716).

Mayon’s beauty is really mystifying and intriguing. While she is always beautiful to look at, she also challenges you to further appreciate her by going out of your comfort zone. However you choose to conquer her, you are set to admire Mayon over and over again.

Hey, let me know of your Mayon conquer soon! Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

  • All Mayon climb photos courtesy of different travelers I’ve met at Amor Farm Beach Resort in Donsol.
  • Except for the aerial shot of Mayon which was taken with a Sony T90 digital camera, all the other Mayon photographs were taken with a Canon 550d.
Related articles
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Romancing Mayon

03/28/2012 · juanderkid

It is easy to understand why Mayon Volcano is bewitching. Her beauty, yet grand and imposing, is also subtle and sublime at the same time. She’s a tease one minute, showcasing all her beauty for everyone to see. When she does that, prepare to be in awe. At times she gets shy and acts mysterious, preferring to seek shelter from the clouds, which according to Bicol legend is her lover Panguinuron kissing her. When this happens, it is as if first-time travelers to the province beg her to show her beauty the way a man who pursues a woman desperately asks for her affection.

Her beauty commands attention and she rightfully deserves so. After all, Mayon is named after Daragang Magayon, the most beautiful this side of the universe whose beauty served both as her blessing and her curse. Daragang Magayon‘s love story has all the elements that would make Romeo and Juliet pale in comparison. Juliet’s love affair with Romeo ended when they both committed suicide, Daragang Magayon‘s story on the other hand, continues to this day.

When Mayon subtly erupts, that is Daragang Magayon weeping for the lose of her lover. When she erupts violently, however, that is her in rage over her misfortune. In fact, if Daragang Magayon‘s love story is to be believed, one would notice that Mayon is at her most beautiful when the clouds appear close to her, like a woman blushing at the sight of her lover.

Mayon today is that enchanting volcano which beauty is incomparable even when she pours out fumes of lava. There is a joke that goes around Albay which tells of photographers inviting death by running towards Mayon when she erupts. They are, obviously, still smitten by Mayon’s beauty even when she’s furious. To the people who live around her (it is interesting to note that almost all of Albay’s 18 towns are built around Mayon), she is both a blessing and a curse to their communities.

For first-time visitors to the province, Mayon is a towering beauty that needs to be seen and appreciated. Her near-perfect cone has been photographed time and again, attesting to the fact that Mayon is one nation’s pride that never goes out of style. Here are the spots where you can have a good view of her although when you travel around Albay, her presence is ubiquitous, it is almost impossible to miss her.

If you’re traveling by car, you start to get a view of Mayon in some parts of Camarines Sur. Her imposing presence is hard to miss once you set foot in Albay, but she appears closer when you are in the town of Guinobatan, some 30-minute ride to Legazpi City.  

A short ride from Guinobatan is the town of Camalig where you can buy pinangat, a Bicol delicacy made of taro leaves and coconut milk, they make for great pasalubongs since they can be refrigerated for a month. Your next destination after your quick stop in Camalig should be the Cagsawa Ruins, famous for its bell tower – what now remains of the Cagsawa Church that was destroyed when Mayon erupted in 1814.

There’s a good view of Mayon as you make your entrance to Cagsawa from the national road. Do not forget to check Mayon some more few steps behind the bell tower. Cagsawa can get crowded at times so you have to find your best spot for that snapshot. I took this photo on our way to the Cagsawa Ruins.

Another point of interest in Albay where you can also have a good look at Mayon is the Church of Our Lady of the Gate, locally known as the Daraga Church. It is some 10-15 minutes ride from Cagsawa Ruins. Situated on top of a hill, this 18th century Baroque church offers a striking view of the volcano.

There are some refreshment areas near the church which offer a view deck of Mayon, so avail of this opportunity. Before you leave the place, make sure you take photos of the church whose walls were built using volcanic rocks. If you’re familiar with Filipino movies, this spot shall remind you of that classic scene in the 90s movie Pangako ng Kahapon.

From Daraga, take the diversion road to Legazpi City to get a closer view of Mayon. A good number of villages appear to have been built very near Mayon, one of which you will encounter on your left side on your way to the city. Mayon is a permanent fixture wherever you go in Albay, it is safe to say that it is a big part of Albayanos’ everyday living.

You can head directly to Lingnon Hill which also offers a really good view point of Mayon Volcano. But if you want to see Mayon from a different angle, and on a different environment, travel to Embarcadero de Legazpi.  A recent addition to the city, Embarcadero is located within the City Port which means you get a seafront experience in romancing Mayon. Packaged as a lifestyle and commercial hub, you can have food from the different restaurants around. If it’s an out-of-the-ordinary way of admiring Mayon that you crave for, try their zipline ride for a unique viewing experience. The same experience can be had in Lingnon Hill but Embarcadero’s unique selling preposition is its location. Legazpi being a quaint city, it is easy to ask for directions to get to Embarcadero.

As you make your way out of the city, you will notice some shanties that somehow speak of the kind of life in Bicol. Once the major paths of monsoons hitting the country (I think it still is, although based on observation, monsoons these past few years have taken on a different path already), the region is actually a developing hub, thanks primarily to the boom in tourism. Mayon Volcano used to be the lone major attraction in the region, but now it shares that recognition with the CamSur Watersports Complex in Pili and the whale sharks of Donsol. Given the kind of adventure that the region offers, the sight of Mayon is that calming pill that relaxes your system after a very tiring day around Bicol.

When you continue traveling out of Legazpi to nearby towns going to the direction of Tabaco City, you will come across this spot on your left side where three huge crosses are built in memory of the people who perished from Typhoon Reming in 2006. This is Padang. A village used to occupy this place. It does not exist anymore.

Padang was buried by mud and boulders when Reming ravaged the province. According to reports, around 900 people died due to the “lahar and mud earlier disgorged by Mount Mayon that did not follow the course of the rivers but cut new paths and plunged to villages, burying people alive.”  Mayon Volcano is both a blessing and a curse.

As you continue driving, you get more scenic views of Mayon on your left. I honestly think that this is the angle that shows Mayon’s now famous near-perfect cone. When you take a close look at Mayon from Guinobatan, you will notice the crack near Mayon’s crater that ruins the near-perfect cone allusion. You don’t see that from this location. Continue driving until you get to Santo Domingo which offers a really stunning view of Mayon.

The thing is that you cannot really run away from Mayon’s charm and you need not go very far to enjoy her beauty. Wherever you go in Albay, you can see Mayon teasing, smiling, hiding. She appears so near, but you know she can be very elusive, too. She, perhaps, likes the chase. If that’s the case, it wouldn’t hurt if you play along.

Be prepared to be enchanted by Mayon. Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

  • Except for the first photo, all photographs taken with a Canon 550d.

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Local Juander: Donsol’s Omar Nepomuceno

03/27/2012 · juanderkid

We know that traveling allows us to see the world beyond our comfort zones. We come home from most of our travels with renewed faith in ourselves and a changed perspective in life. More often than not, that shift in our understanding of the world comes from meeting people in our travels, most of whom are local people who warmly welcome us into their lives.

It’s time to meet and honor more Local Juanders who make our travels easy and exciting. For our first feature on them, I want you to meet Omar Nepomuceno, a Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) from Donsol who takes his job to his heart. Being one of the very first tour guides in Donsol, Omar has a wealth of experience in dealing with tourists, but more so, a deeper understanding that his job entails not just tourist-satisfaction. Ensuring the protection of the whale sharks, locally known as butandings, is something that Omar strongly feels about, and it shows in the kind of work that he delivers all the time.

Omar is one of the original 28 Butanding Interaction Officers who were trained by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) in 1998 at the height of whale shark discovery in Donsol. He has just gotten home from a previous work in Manila and found himself on the boat with foreign travelers one April afternoon. He recalls that since the boatmen had a hard time talking with foreigners, they would drag him to go with them to talk with the guests. It became his job to entertain them, informing them of other places in Donsol that might be of interest to them.

He was the first to explore the potential of river cruising and firefly watching in Donsol, together with other environmental groups and individuals who did the mapping for Donsol’s early tourism plan. Omar is happy now that Donsol is known around the globe as the Whale Shark Capital of the World and takes pride in the realization that a lot of his townmates have actually benefited from it.

His work as a BIO has taken him around the Philippines already. For instance, he trained the fishermen in Pamilacan Island in Bohol (popular for whale shark hunting in the 90s) on how to interact with the whale sharks and have engaged them in understanding that the entire community benefits from keeping the whale sharks alive than poaching them.

“I use our community here in Donsol as an example in making them understand that it is always better to ensure the protection of the whale sharks and that proper tourism allows people in the community to further benefit from protecting them. A family of six can easily benefit from whale shark hunting, but for how long? For what cost? Whereas, a mother gets to work as a housekeeper, a tricycle driver earns more from transporting tourists back and forth, a fisherman enjoys additional income as spotters and guides – these things, when add up, mean a lot to a community,” Omar says in Filipino.

This is also the same line that he uses to explain to his guests why Donsol is forever grateful for the presence of whale sharks in its water. And why he sees to it that all of his guests on-board strictly follow the regulations of interacting with the whale sharks. When he has a guest who tries or touches the whale shark, he sends him back to the Tourism Center, short from banning him from interacting with the whale shark again. He says he has to do it. Someone has to do it, especially now when most of the BIOs and the Tourism Center have become lax already.

When you see Omar work as as BIO, you understand the kind of dedication that he puts into his job. He could easily tell, just by observing the behavior of his guests, how their interaction for the day is going to turn out. He takes his guests’ masks when he notices that they are not clear and clean these for them. He provides extra guidance to those whom he feels need further assistance. And then, he engages you with his self-deprecating humor (“I don’t need a vest anymore, this is my inflatable!” – referring to his big tummy). And he is the only BIO out there who provides his guests with lessons on whale shark anatomy with the help of a wooden sculpture of it.

He is cool like that. So when you happen to be in Donsol anytime soon, consider yourself to be extra lucky when he happens to be your BIO. Here’s a Local Juander’s take on Donsol.

Guests should not leave Donsol without: Seeing or swimming with a whale shark and a deeper appreciation for their existence on earth.

When in Donsol: Eat our local delicacy, kinunot (fish meat, malunggay, chilies, and coconut milk). Kawnkita Restaurant at Amor Farm Beach Resort makes a really mean kinunot.

Say: Gusto ko makailing ning butanding (I want to see a whale shark)!
One thing that they should know about Donsol: The presence of whale sharks and fireflies in our town says a lot about our healthy environment. Let’s do our part in protecting our environment.
The best thing about my job: Meeting different people and helping protect the whale shark.

__________
  • All photographs taken on February 2012 with a Canon 550d

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Juan-oh-1: Calaguas

03/27/2012 · juanderkid

Calaguas is not your usual beach destination so it requires more preparation than your ordinary trip for a quick beach fix. If you’re up for an adventure that requires you to take a two-hour boat ride on top of a 7-8 hour bus ride, sleep on a tent, rinse from a water pump, and then relax with nature’s grandeur in sight, head to Calaguas now.

Arm yourself with the information that will make your Calaguas trip as easy as a breeze.

YOUR DESTINATION: Mahabang Buhangin (Long Beach). This long stretch of fine white sand is actually just one part of Tinaga Island, one of the many islands that comprise the Calaguas Group of Islands in Camarines Norte, north of Bicol region. Three barangays are situated in the island and there is one at the back where Mahabang Buhangin is, some 30-45 minute walk from the beach.

HOW TO GET TO CALAGUAS: Endure a 7-8 hour bus ride from Manila and another 2-hour boat ride from any of these jump-off points: Daet, Panganiban, and Paracale.

  • Take any of the Philtranco or Superlines buses that ply the route.
  • Philtranco buses from Pasay to Daet leave at 8am, 1pm, 8pm, and 9:30pm while buses from their Cubao station leave at 7am and 8:30pm. All of these are air-conditioned trips, fare is PhP580. Philtranco also has ordinary trips from Pasay to Paracale and Panganiban at 7am and 6:30pm, fare is PhP456.
  • Superlines, in Cubao, has ordinary trips to Daet that leave every hour from 3am to 12 midnight. Air-conditioned buses leave at 7:45am and 9:30am, and 1:30pm, 4:30pm, 9pm, and 9:30pm. There is also an air-conditioned bus that leaves for Panganiban and Paracale at 7:45pm while ordinary trips to these towns leave at 5:30am and 5:30pm. Fares to all of these destinations are PhP515 and PhP400 for air-conditioned and ordinary buses, respectively.
  • Travel time is 7-8 hours if you take the air-conditioned trips and more if you ride one of the ordinary buses.
  • Consequently, you can fly from Manila to Naga or Legazpi but traveling from Naga to Daet, Panganiban, and Paracale will take you another 3-4 hours on the road (5-6 hours if you’re coming from Legazpi).

JUANDERTIP: Should you want a ride that shall get you in any of these jump-off points in time for the sunrise, take the 9:30pm Philtranco trip from Pasay. You can arrange for a boat ride from Daet to Tinaga Island but the word is that the ride is rough from Daet. If this information intimidates you, you can opt to take the boat from Paracale or Panganiban, where the waves are “calmer.” As it maybe, get off at the Talobatib Junction (fare is still PhP580), some 30-minute ride before Daet. From Talobatib, you can wait for the buses from Daet going to Paracale and Panganiban or you can arrange for a tricycle ride for at least PhP200. You can pay less if your haggling skill is magnificent. Travel time from Talobatib to Panganiban is 20-30 minutes, while Talobatib to Paracale is 30-45 minutes.

  • Once at the fishing ports of these two towns, you can make arrangements with the boatmen. Depending on your dealings (these deals usually involve these considerations: whether the boat should just drop you off in Mahabang Buhangin and then fetch you on a different schedule or the boat should wait for your group) and the size of boat that your group is going to take, expect to shell out from PhP2,000 to PhP5,000.
  • When in Panganiban, contact Engr. Dan Galvan at +639178383566 for better deals especially if you’re traveling as a big group. In Paracale, you can ask around for Mang Boy Camara, one of the more-experienced boatmen who charge reasonably.

INSIDER’S TIP: Lourdes Clarissa Donatilla Cu, a lawyer from Daet, says:  ”Daet (as a jump-off point to Calaguas) is out of the question for me because Bagasbas beach has ‘surf waves’ and boat ride will take longer than two hours.  I have only tried two jump-off points: Mercedes port and Vinzons port.The boat ride from Vinzons is faster than Mercedes to Calaguas. The boat ride is good, even less than two hours in very fine weather. So all in all, I think Vinzons is the shortest and easiest way to Calaguas.”

  • When taking the Vinzons route to Calaguas, take any of the Philtranco and Superlines buses that travel to Daet and ask the driver to drop you off in Vinzons. It is a short tricycle ride to the town’s fishing port, where you take the boat ride to Mahabang Buhangin.

WHAT TO EXPECT IN THE ISLAND: There is still no accommodation and electricity on the beach. The village at the back of Mahabang Buhangin only enjoys electricity from 6pm to 10pm. Three different people own the beachfront lot, each has its own caretaker. Thus, the beachfront is “divided” into three lots.

The middle lot has more open cottages than the other two, and entrance fee is PhP150. The cost includes the use of a comfort room and an “open shower!” Look for Kuya Rolly Ebuenga. The lot at the far right corner of the beach (if you’re facing the lots) has the cheapest entrance free at PhP75. Although there is no “open shower,” one can use the bathroom or rinse from the water pump by the shrubs. Look for Kuya Arnol Arandia. There are open cottages that can be rented for PhP150 (day-use) and PhP300 (overnight-use) but these are not really “sleep-friendly.” Expect these fees to increase during summer.

WHAT TO BRING: Since there is still no accommodation and electricity on the beach and you plan to spend the night there, it’s best to bring your camping gears with you: tent, sleeping mattress if you must, flashlight, swiss knife, and the likes.

Although you can buy fish from one of the fishermen in the area, bring some canned goods as well. Fish are sold early in the morning and later in the afternoon, so when you get to the island at 10am, there’s a big chance that you are not going to get any of this harvest anymore. In this case, you’ll have to rely on your canned goods or if it’s seafood that you fancy, you can buy them at the fishing port before you leave for Calaguas.

Do not forget to bring rice as well. If you do not have some camping cooking utensils with you, don’t worry. You can ask the caretakers to cook them for your group, you just have to pay extra. Bring lots of drinking water. It can get really hot in Calaguas when it’s summer, so it’s a must that you arm yourself with tons and tons of drinking water.

Of course, Mahabang Buhangin being “the” beach destination this summer, you’re bound to bask under the sun, so make sure to bring some arsenal for your skin: sunblock, sunscreen lotion, lip balm, sunburn spray, you know the drill. Also, bring a mosquito repellent lotion. You might need them when you hit the bed at night.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO GO: It is safe to go to Calaguas from March until July, the locals say, but it’s because they are used to the sea. What can be a manageable ride for them on a June morning can be scary enough for someone who is not used to riding the boat. The waves going to Calaguas can get really big and scary at times so always refer to the weather. The weather being overly-weird these days, do not plan a June trip to Calaguas when monsoons start to enter the country. I remember seeing it in the news that four fishermen went missing on board a motorized banca off Calaguas after it was swept away by huge waves on July 2010. Plan your trip accordingly.

Calaguas is getting more popular these days, so go on a slow weekday to have the place all to yourself. Tuesdays until Fridays are your best bet. The crowd can get bigger during summer, especially on weekends and holidays.

JUANDERTIP: Calaguas is a picturesque destination so I understand when your camera runs out of batteries after four hours of taking photographs non-stop. If you do not have an extra battery with you, never fret. You can ask your caretakers or any of the little island boys and girls around to have your batteries charged for the night and they will gladly do it, for a very minimal fee. They can take the batteries with them when they go home to the village and you can also request that they bring your batteries back early in the morning if you want to take photographs of the sunrise.

The finest sand on the beach is found on the far right corner (when you’re facing the water) where the beach bends. Also, when it is low-tide, you can explore the other side of the island by walking through the rock formations here. You will be lead to another beach which exudes a different aura than Mahabang Buhangin: rock formations, rougher waves and sand.

Befriend a local and ask if you can borrow their paddle boat. They oblige to simple requests like this. Or if you want, ask them to take you to the nearby islands where you can climb the rolling hills or the bigger rock formations. They make for a very interesting backdrop for your photographs.

During summer, there is a “rolling store” that sells halo-halo (yay!). You can have them at your favorite corner on the beach. Enjoy Calaguas!

Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

  • Except for the last photograph on this post, all photos taken with a Canon 550d. Last photograph taken with a Nikon d300, courtesy of M. Aficial. All photographs taken on March 2012.

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Life’s A Paradise!

03/26/2012 · juanderkid

It sure is easy to say life’s a beach. You can score a seat sale and go to Boracay, the paragon for an exciting beach life in the country today, or you can opt to take the short inexpensive two-hour land trip to Batangas for a quick beach fix.

The accessibility of beaches in the country presents an instant gratification but owning a piece of paradise – one that spells fun, excitement, and reward – all to yourself even for just a day does not come along too often. That is the kind of relaxation that you should create for yourself. With everyone heading to the same beach destinations, everybody can claim life’s a beach. I know you do not want that for yourself. So say goodbye, life’s a beach, and say hello, life’s a paradise!

If you’re on the lookout for the country’s stunning beaches, you have to keep in mind that to get there is not easy. No pain, no gain. Getting there is half the fun, yes. But you have to make sure that where you’re headed deserves the bumpy ride. The tougher it takes to get to the destination, the better things await you there.

Think Calaguas. I have a special bias for this island’s long beach because it allows me to live the kind of island life I imagine to spend in a beach bum’s paradise. A piece of solitude that’s hard to come by these days, a 360-degree stunning vista, crystal clear water that gently slopes into different gradients, fresh seafood, clouds that are within your reach, a sweet sunset, island dogs that run around freely – wouldn’t you want to stay here forever?

You know you are in for a very amazing holiday with this kind of view that gets your heart to stop beating for some nanoseconds. Unspoiled beach, fine white sand, crystal clear water.

And you realize that you are in for an even more exciting day on the beach when you cannot help but gush like this even when you haven’t gotten out of your boat after enduring a two-hour ride.

Wherever you look, the sight of crystal clear water assures you that you are going to have a grand time relaxing on this island.

The water is just unbelievably clear, so you take lots of photos of it to show proof of their existence in this universe.

And just when you cannot contain your excitement anymore, island dogs approach to welcome you. They are too friendly to be ignored. You are enamored by them and now you know you are home.

You ditch any of your gadgets and spend some time playing with the dog because, really, there is no home for technology here. You thank God there’s still a place in the Philippines which does not enjoy a strong cellular network connection. You put your mobile phones away and you let go of your worries that surely belong to the city. You read a really good book, try to remember the meditation you’ve been meaning to practice, or have a luxurious time frolicking in the water. If you want, go au naturel when you swim as no one would really mind since you are the only guest on the beach. I suggest you do. :D

Enjoy the sun for as long as you want and work on your sun-kissed tan that does wonder to your soul. Just don’t forget to put on your sunblock, though. At this point, you just cannot help but be grateful for this day in paradise. So, laugh. Like you are the happiest person in the world. Because you are. It is so easy to feel that way when you are surrounded by this stunning work of beauty.

While you are at it, bring out the kid in you and have fun looking at the cloud formations. The sky here is always clear and the clouds appear bigger. Pretend that you are reaching for some cotton candies. Giggle.

Or fix your eyes on the grand view that surrounds you. On your left, verdant green abounds.

On your right, the beach gently bends and appears like it’s connected to the rolling hills from afar. You heave a sigh of contentment.

When you are done with your me-time, you explore the rest of the island with your friends or partner. You enjoy doing some stuff (wholesome activities, that is) that you just won’t or cannot normally do on other beaches teeming with people.

You spend an hour perfecting your jump shot as a group. You bring out your beach paraphernalia that makes restful afternoons on the beach fun and colorful. You run after your partner like you are some star-crossed lovers from France. You are just into the moment that you do not really realize you have enough pictures to spare you from hiring the services of a photographer for your prenup pictures.

At this time, you are glowing from loving your stay in paradise and grinning at the realization that you do not have to spend a fortune for this kind of happiness.

Even when your tummy gets hungry, you never worry. You know that boat from afar is fishing and will be back on the shore in no time. You take time appreciating the water glittering at this time of the day when the sun is at its hottest.

When the fishermen come back, you are surprised to find their catch for the day. Some of these fish you haven’t seen before, or perhaps you had already on some books or someone’s aquarium. You try to recognize if one of the fish happens to be Flounder, from The Little Mermaid.

The little island boy, who went fishing with his family, could not help but be fascinated with your innocence. He smiles at you. You find him adorable and decides to buy all the fish they have for PhP400.

You end up with a pail-load of fresh fish. You kindly ask the caretaker of the beachfront lot where you built your tent to prepare your late lunch and she comes back with loads of seafood cooked in various ways: there’s grilled fish, sinigang (sour soup), and paksiw (fish steamed in vinegar). You fancy the idea of a feast day. You ditch your spoon and fork and head to the beach and eat to your heart’s (and tummy’s) content.

And when it is time for the sun to take its rest for the day, you utter a silent prayer of gratitude. After enjoying the sun’s spectacle for the last time, you finally take a bath. The moon is on its full glory so you decide to bathe by the shrubs, fully-naked. You feel like there is no disconnect in your world today.  You thank the universe for bringing you to this place and for allowing you to own this paradise for a day. You secretly and smilingly tell yourself, “Tomorrow’s another day.” :)

  • P O S T C R I P T

Calaguas is getting more popular these days, so go on a slow weekday to have the place all to yourself. Tuesdays until Fridays are your best bet. The crowd can get bigger during summer, especially on weekends and holidays. If the number of nipa cottages in the area right now is any indication, I can tell Calaguas is going to transform in the coming years. I have also heard from a local official that some Australian investors have taken interest in developing Calaguas.

When I went to Calaguas two years ago, there were only three small nipa houses where the caretakers live and some five nipa open cottages that were for rent. Three different people own the beachfront, each has its own caretaker. The entrance fee (which is used by the caretakers for maintaining the place) in 2010 was PhP50 per person. The rate now costs from PhP75-100. Open cottages are for rent for PhP150 (day-use) and PhP300 (overnight-use). Close to twenty open cottages are now to be found on the beach.

This development adds a different charm to the island life in Calaguas. There is still no electricity on this side of the island.

Calaguas’s beauty is definitely one for the books. If you’re up for an adventure that requires you to take a two-hour boat ride on top of a 7-8 hour bus ride, sleep on a tent, rinse from a water pump, and then relax with nature’s grandeur in sight, head to Calaguas now!

Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

  • Except for the sunset photograph, all photos taken with a Canon 550d.
  • Sunset photo courtesy of M. Aficial.
  • All photos taken on March 2012.

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Tara na, byahe tayo!

03/23/2012 · juanderkid

I am having breakfast now in a really cool art house somewhere in Puerto Princesa and I have been thinking about our Palawan journey that has taken us to Coron then El Nido and now Puerto Princesa, the last leg of our tour. My very good friend D took me with her entire family and I just can’t be grateful enough that since we started on this tour, I have not been spending that much. Suffice it to say that an all-expense-paid trip around Palawan is a gift of friendship that, although does not really measure your friendship, says about the kind of relationship you want to nurture with each other.

I am extremely grateful.

But aside from this gift of friendship, I am grateful for this opportunity to travel around Palawan because it has taken me to get to know some really interesting Filipinos whose kindness is just immeasurable. Their enduring faith in the Philippines also makes me really proud to be a Filipino. Certainly, some of the country’s gentlest individuals reside in Palawan. From Kuya Roland, the driver of the van we hired in Coron, to Kuya Ondo, our tour guide slash driver from El Nido to Puerto Princesa, everyone that we’ve met on the road is a gentle reminder that we shouldn’t give up on our country.

I love the Philippines.

Even when our resorts are not at par with Hawaii’s accommodations. Even when our island-hopping tours are not as organized as the ones in the Caribbean. Even when it takes infinite hours to get from one destination to the next. Even when some of our own try to rip our fellow kababayans off.

That’s the beauty of our country. And realizing that kind of beauty that we have requires a deeper understanding and an appreciation of where our country is now, where it was before, and where it wants to be in the future. Our country is rugged, it does not always call for a first-class accommodation. It does not compete with California or London. It calls for an adventure that’s not duplicated in the Middle East or in Northern Europe. It asks you to see that its imperfections and rawness comprise the entire package.

It’s a country where most people in the countryside rely on farming and fishing and tourism is something that mostly takes flight during summer. My friend D told me that according to United Nations standard, for a person to be considered living in poverty line, he has to survive on US$1 a day. I don’t think most of our fellowmen who reside in the provinces even get to earn that money everyday.

So, try to understand, but more importantly, correct a kababayan who tries to cheat on you. Offer him your genuine Filipino smile or a pat on the back or a classic Filipino joke. That sure breaks any barrier and melts any doubt. When you show them how sincere you are and not pretend like you have the money to buy the world, they show you that part of their selves that makes you grateful you are a Filipino.

Let us support local tourism and our fellow kababayans and the unique experience that goes with our domestic travels. Really, we don’t need a Shang or a Pen or an Oriental on every island. When your view is this good, why would you consume your time enjoying your hotel’s US$200 air-conditioning?

Get out. Let the sun touch your skin. Mingle. Listen to your countrymen’s stories. And appreciate yourself even better.

Matamang salamat, Palawan! Salamat, D!

Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :)

 

__________

  • Photograph taken on March 2012 with a Canon 550d while lounging around The Alternative, in El Nido, Palawan.

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The Great Bicol Adventure

03/18/2012 · juanderkid

Bicol has always been popular because of the diminutive superstar who took the country by surprise in the 70s. But there is more to Bicol than famous movie stars and pretty beauty queens. Home to some of the country’s gorgeous beaches, the biggest fish in the world, fiery cuisines, and world’s perfect cone – you are bound to create an adventure in Bicol that would be unparalleled in the years to come. Let Juanderkid, a true-blooded Bicolano who recently went on a Bicol road trip with his friends, inspire your new escapade. :)

My friend and travel buddy M have been eyeing a Bicol adventure since 2010 but we only got to finally schedule our trip this year. We were joined by M’s boyfriend, P, also a Bicolano, who helped me tour M around Bicolandia. Star, M’s car, was obviously in good shape for this journey, and with P as our willing chauffeur, we left Manila at 11pm on March 7.

DAY 1. MARCH 08.

The trip to our first stop  was short and easy (only because I was asleep the entire time!). M is that little mermaid who loves the sea so I thought of taking her first to Calaguas, in Camarines Norte. Camarines Norte is your gateway to Bicol when you are driving from Manila. I have been to Calaguas twice via the Paracale route, but since I was not so sure if it’s safe to leave Star in Paracale, we decided to head to Panganiban where another friend of mine, S, lives.

This was the view that greeted us when we parked our car in front of Panganiban’s police station at 5:45 am.

After our breakfast in Evia’s (they have wifi at 6am!), we met S, a municipal councilor who made all the arrangements for us. She introduced us to some police officials who will look after Star while we’re away, and even let us use the municipal hall’s comfort room so we could refresh. These are my friends S, M, and P.

We reached Calaguas by 11am. We were the only guests on the beach (until 3pm when another boat of four people arrived) so my friends had a field day in paradise.

We spent the night on a tent and we were really fortunate the moon was on its full glory. It was bright enough to light our night. One of us decided to take a bath by the shrubs, under the moon, and fully-naked since a moment like that doesn’t happen too often in this lifetime. :D

DAY 2. MARCH 09. 

We made a quick stop in Daet (one-hour drive from Panganiban) for lunch and although we would like to see Daet’s Bagasbas beach and try surfing, we decided to skip that for now and went straight to Naga City (two hours away from Daet) where we paid homage to Bicol’s Beloved Mother, the Penafrancia.

Every September, thousands of devotees from all over the world flock to Naga to participate in the celebration of Our Lady of Penafrancia where a fluvial procession takes place.

We then dropped by the famous CWC, a watersports complex in Pili, Camarines Norte (just a short 15-minute drive from Naga City). The place was beaming with foreign enthusiasts and since M and I aren’t really big fans of extreme sports, we spent the time people-watching.

And had merienda in one of CWC’s restaurants where we partook on its famous Bicolana Pizza, a fusion of Bicol Express and Laing (taro leaves with coconut milk) which flavor literally explodes in your mouth. It was delish!

We could have just went straight to Sabang, the jump-off point to Caramoan, but considering Star’s safety again, we made our way  to Tabaco City (an hour and 45 minutes drive from Pili), P’s hometown, and spent the night there.

DAY 3. MARCH 10. 

P asked his friend to drive us to Sangay in Camarines Sur (one hour from Tabaco) where we took the ferry to Caramoan. The ride via Joroan Road in Tiwi, Albay to Sangay was exciting and scenic, we stopped at the sight of this at 5:30am.

By 10am, we were already island-hopping around Caramoan where the reality television series Survivor USA was filming and around seven islands were “closed to the public” for it. We learned from our boatman, Kuya Ute, that Survivor India had just finished filming as well. We did not insist to go to the different islands anymore and just settled to spend the day in Lahos Island and Matukad beach.

I climbed one of the rock formations that lead to a lagoon, believed by the locals to be enchanted.

At this point, we’re just having too many fresh seafood and Bicolano dishes such as Bicol Express and Laing.

DAY 4. MARCH 11. 

From Caramoan, we traveled by boat to Sabang (two hours) where another couple friends of ours were waiting for us. We drove back to Pili (one hour from Sabang) and had lunch at Bigg’s Diner, a popular Bicolano food chain whose ambiance reminds my friend M of Baguio’s famous 50′s Diner.

We then proceeded to Kawa-Kawa Hill in Ligao City, a natural park which houses larger-than-life statues of The Way of the Cross. The place was so named since its upper portion resembles that of a kawa (a frying pan they say, but actually more like a wok). Think UP Diliman’s Sunken Garden, only bigger and deeper.

We headed back to Tabaco City (another 45 minutes from Ligao) to spend our night there. In most of our travels from Camarines Sur and around Albay, we were always greeted by the majestic Mayon Volcano.

DAY 05. MARCH 12. 

We left Tabaco at 8am and drove straight to Barcelona (around three hours drive) in Sorsogon. Barcelona is a coastal town which church wall was built using corals in 1874.

In front of the church is another old structure that dates back to the 17th century, where I had my photo taken with the local kids on their way home from school.

After our brief stop in Barcelona, we drove to Bulusan to see its lake (drive to Bulusan from Barcelona is one hour) and found rice fields after rice fields that were just too eye-candy to be ignored.

By 12:30pm, we had our lunch by the Bulusan Lake, which is at the heart of the Bulusan Volcano National Park.

And pedaled our way around the lake with the help of a water bike (rent is PhP250).

After which, we drove to Donsol (two hours and a half from Bulusan) and stayed at our place, Amor Farm Beach Resort. We had a short merienda before we took the firefly tour. Too bad it was low tide so we had to take the tour from the bridge and had to forego the sunset part of it which you enjoy when you take the ride from our resort.

DAY 06. MARCH 13.

We woke up early and took the 7am whale shark tour. We were joined by a German couple who saw four whale sharks the day before. After an hour and a half of going around, we spotted one whale shark and both my friends were able to swim with it, albeit for a very short period. It must have been the weird weather pattern at this time of the year (think Manila heavy rain in the middle of the month) that scared the whale sharks to show up that day. Nevertheless, M and P were just too happy to have finally seen a whale shark.

Before we headed back to Legazpi City, we had lunch at Kawnkita Restaurant (Amor Farm Beach Resort) where the star of the show was the Kinunot, a local delicacy made of fish meat, malunggay, chilies, and coconut milk. Yummy! :D

We were back in Legazpi by 3pm (Donsol is an hour away from the city) where we dared each other and enjoyed the zipline ride that gave us a stunning view of Mayon.

We ended our day and our week-long Bicol adventure by devouring Bicol Express Pasta at Small Talk, a local restaurant famous for their fusion Bicolano dishes. We certainly had tons of fun!

Meet Star, our official carrier. :D

A lot of things certainly await you in Bicol. Whether it’s an adventure that would take you to some rugged mountains and beaches, or up in the sky, or under the sea, or a personal journey that would bring you closer to your faith and the universe, Bicol has one for you. Catanduanes and Masbate are not yet covered here, so expect to double the fun when you also visit the charming islands of Catanduanes and Masbate.

 What are you waiting for? Call on your friends and family and start working on your Bicol adventure now!

Love and light, everyone. Go, juanderlust! :D

__________

  • All photographs, except that of the moon, P on a zipline, and the sunset, were taken with a Canon 550d.
  • Moon and sunset photos taken with a Nikon d300.
  • Photo of P on a zipline courtesy of Alvin Luminario of Lignon Hill Zipline Adventure.

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